I use two tools - Philips test pen and Proskit SD-803. That two are basically what I have in hand.
This is the back PCB of the multimeter and I do some guessing myself.
Above is the back cover, I think that is a buzzer, and it is connected to PCB using the two springs.
Further unscrew, back PCB and front PCB.
Front PCB has that nice looking circular track.
And we have the rotary thing with copper coupled.
This is the front cover, and there are two ball bearings.
The whole pcb look simple, and I only saw two ICs,
the controller and ST-GZ 344.
Although, I never tear a fluke multimeter, but I think this pcb is simple. Maybe that why Victor can sell it at such low price.
Mannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn, you saved my multimeter!!!!
ReplyDeletei spilled some orange juice on it and when i took it apart a accidently changed the order of the rotation dial.... thanks for the pictures :)
haha, didnt expect to help you this way.
Deletelol, you are welcome.
Glad i can help. ^^
can you tell me the ccaz capacity value?
ReplyDeletetoo bad, i didnt use this multimeter for quit some team already.
Deleteand it is not with me anymore
Interesting teardown! It's always fascinating to see what's inside electronic devices. By the way, if you're into multimeters, have you checked out Fluke products in the Philippines? They're known for their quality and reliability in the field. Might be worth exploring if you're looking for a replacement or upgrade. Keep up the teardowns – they're a great way to learn!
ReplyDelete